• When to Mow
• Mowing Methods
• Height of Cut

Although the frequency of mowing and the height of cut will depend on the style of lawn, the type of grass and the time of year, it is always best to cut little and often. The lawn will often struggle to recover after infrequent, radical cutting, and there will be a resulting decline in its appearance. In general, you should aim to cut the grass by no more than a third at any one time.

Lawns will need to be cut more frequently in summer when the grass grows quickly than in the spring and autumn. It may only be necessary to 'top' the lawn in winter by removing the tips of the grass.

High quality lawns will probably need to be mown every two or three days in summer to maintain their fine appearance, whilst utility lawns can be cut just once a week. The areas under trees should be mown even less frequently - every one or two weeks in summer. Any areas of flower-rich grassland should be cut no more than 2 or 3 times a year, but only after the flowering species have shed their seed in mid-summer.

Whilst lawns should be cut often in the warm, moist conditions of early and late summer, they should not be mown in very dry conditions, or if they are, the mower should be set to produce a much higher cut. You should also avoid mowing in frosty or wet weather; mowing in frost will damage the grass, whilst wet grass can clog the mower.

Consider brushing the lawn with a besom before cutting, particularly if you are mowing in the morning or if you have a high quality lawn. Brushing removes dew and dries the grass surface, making it considerably easier to mow; it also raises the grass, giving a better cut.

If mowing a regular square or rectangular lawn, start by cutting a wide strip at either end of the lawn to provide turning space. Then, starting at one edge, mow up and down in straight strips, slightly overlapping the previous run to ensure that all the grass is cut. Use a mower fitted with a roller to achieve a classic, striped finish to the lawn.

An irregularly shaped lawn will require an initial strip to be cut around the entire lawn edge. Then, starting at the centre of one end, mow a straight line down the middle. Mow straight strips up and down one half of the lawn, then return to the centre and mow the other half in the same way.

If you have a sports lawn used for ball games such as croquet, putting or bowls, make sure that you vary the direction every time you mow to stop the grass from growing in one particular direction. This will prevent a grain from developing that would affect the run of the ball.

If you have a high quality lawn, always remove any grass clippings, as this will reduce the spread of weeds and will also help to prevent a build-up of thatch, producing a finer finish. Removing cuttings will also discourage earthworms, which may spoil the surface of the lawn. However, utility lawns, which do not require such a perfect surface may benefit from the presence of earthworms as they will recycle the clippings, returning plant nutrients to the soil. The majority of clipping must be removed though, as excessive amounts may cause damage to the turf beneath as they rot away. Most gardeners prefer to remove grass clippings and replace any lost nutrients by feeding.

High-quality lawns can be cut as low as 0.5 cm (1/4 in); however, the grasses used for utility lawns cannot tolerate such a low cut, and so should be left at a height of 2.5 cm (1 in). This will also protect the surface against heavy wear and tear. Rough areas of grass should be mown to a height of 5-10 cm (2-4 in), whilst flower-rich grassland should never be cut to less than 10 cm (4 in).

The table below summarises the height and frequency of cut for different styles of lawn throughout the season.