The Gardening Year for Climbing Plants


In early spring, carry out formative and renovation pruning for evergreens and deciduous climbers that flower on new wood. Feed and mulch established plants and water if necessary. Deadhead repeat-flowering species. Layering propagation techniques may also be carried out at this point.

In mid-spring, once conditions are suitable, plant new climbers in prepared ground or in containers. Re-pot established container-grown climbing plants, unless they are spring-flowering.

In late spring, prune spring-flowering species that flower on old wood once the display has finished. Keep the soft stems of climbers tied into their supports, so that they cover the intended space. Softwood cuttings for propagation may be taken at this stage.


Throughout the summer, water plants and deadhead spent flowers. Tie in new shoots to their supports.

Climbers that flower in summer on old wood may be pruned back once flowering is over. The first stage of pruning Wisteria may be carried out in late summer.

Semi-ripe cuttings may be taken for propagation from mid to late-summer.


Climbers may be planted in prepared ground, as can seeds of hardy climbers. Semi-ripe and hardwood cuttings may be taken throughout autumn, and propagation by layering may also be carried out.

Mulch the soil around climbers and renew supports and ties as necessary. Container-grown climbers may be re-potted or top-dressed. Ensure that tender plants are protected by late-autumn.


In early winter, hardwood and root cuttings may be taken and layering may be carried out. Prune back ornamental vines.

In mid-winter, prune wall climbers such as ivy, Virginia creeper or climbing hydrangea to maintain a neat shape. Carry out the second stage of pruning Wisteria.

In late-winter, carry out formative pruning and training for hardy deciduous climbers that flower on new wood.